I was recently at my nephew's wedding at which gentlemen were invited to wear morning dress or lounge suits. Being close family, I wanted to wear the more formal morning suit. I thought I'd ask our personal stylist, Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab, more about morning wear. The advice she gives here applies not just to weddings, but to Ascot and any event at which morning wear is the dress code.
I'd like to thank Oliver Brown for providing a morning suit. Their formalwear hire and sales service is second to none and the clothes are very high quality; many tailored in the UK. See Oliver Brown.
I'd like to thank Oliver Brown for providing a morning suit. Their formalwear hire and sales service is second to none and the clothes are very high quality; many tailored in the UK. See Oliver Brown.
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| Off to the wedding, morning dress Oliver Brown, porcelain buttonhole from Boutonnière London |
Sarah Gilfillan writes:
What I write here is a combination of my thoughts and discussions I've had with David of Grey Fox. The views we express are ours and reflect the occasionally flexible nature of dress codes. Rules are there to be broken, but do so with care!
[GF: If you need help from Sarah on this or any personal styling problem, contact her through her website or try her styling service for Grey Fox Blog readers here.]
What I write here is a combination of my thoughts and discussions I've had with David of Grey Fox. The views we express are ours and reflect the occasionally flexible nature of dress codes. Rules are there to be broken, but do so with care!
[GF: If you need help from Sarah on this or any personal styling problem, contact her through her website or try her styling service for Grey Fox Blog readers here.]
The suit
Morning dress is a formal dress code worn in the day, mostly at weddings, seasonal events such as Ascot Races or at events linked to Royalty or government. It comes in two main variants. The first comprises a black tail coat with striped (or sometimes checked) trousers and a waistcoat (wool or linen and varying in colour; generally grey, black, buff, cream or pale yellow or blue. Sometimes silk waistcoats are worn at weddings; that's a matter of taste.) This is strictly not a morning suit, as nothing matches!
The second variant is less formal. The whole suit (including waistcoat) comes in matching grey. This is known as the morning suit, as opposed to morning dress. Strictly the grey morning suit has a matching waistcoat, but, given its less formal nature, we don't see why you shouldn't try a subtle pastel or paler grey if you want; ignore the purists for once.
The second variant is less formal. The whole suit (including waistcoat) comes in matching grey. This is known as the morning suit, as opposed to morning dress. Strictly the grey morning suit has a matching waistcoat, but, given its less formal nature, we don't see why you shouldn't try a subtle pastel or paler grey if you want; ignore the purists for once.
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| The Royal Family wearing all variations of morning dress |
Get advice on coat/jacket length. The tails should reach the back of the knee, but other factors can come into play, so check the final look in a mirror to ensure the proportions look right. Google 'morning dress' and study the images, what lengths look right, what look wrong? If in doubt, study Prince Charles; nobody wears morning dress better. This is partly because he's so relaxed in it. The fact that he has an excellent tailor helps too. Incidentally, the coat is generally worn unbuttoned.
The trousers are usually cut quite high in the waist and you may need some braces (suspenders in US) to keep them up comfortably without altering their shape.
Usually either form of morning dress is acceptable at a wedding, but the close family may all agree to wear one or other variation to achieve some uniformity of appearance. My experience is that this expectation doesn't generally extend to guests, but check if you're unsure.
Shirt
A white shirt is traditional, although a coloured shirt is a little more adventurous (for example, see Prince Charles's above). If you select a coloured shirt, we highly recommend what the Americans call a Winchester shirt; that is one with a white collar (and sometimes white cuffs as well). This harks back to the days when a removable white collar would be worn on the shirt. In our view, the flash of white at the collar looks much more suited to the formal nature of the suit than does a coloured collar.
The coloured shirt is best in a soft blue, pink or yellow; take care with brighter colours. Stripes and even checks can be worn; but we advise discretion. Pastels and soft hues are best. Grey Fox's choice was for the wedding between a pale blue end on end or a light thin blue candy stripe. Make sure your shirt complements, rather than matches, your waistcoat.
A turn-down collar is the usual and best choice. We aren't keen on wing collars as they give a period costume appearance to your outfit, but do make your own decision about that. Double cuffs (French cuffs) go with the formal nature of the dress.
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| Morning dress of yore. The maverick Prince of Wales wears a bow tie and rakish hat; rules are made to be broken |
Tie/cravat
A silk tie is the best choice here. Cravats and wing collars can be worn, but run the risk of looking a bit over-dressed in our view. Choose a tie in a discreet colour and pattern that complements shirt and waistcoat.
Top hat
For very formal events a top hat may have to be worn. For weddings and other events it is generally put to one side or dispensed with altogether.
Shoes
Black oxfords are the formal shoe of choice. Plain derbies are acceptable. The usual wisdom is that brogues (with punched hole designs) are strictly a bit country and therefore not formal enough. Patent leather is really for evening, not day, wear. Please wear good shoes that aren't too estate agent pointy; bad footwear will ruin the look. They should be in good condition and shiny clean. Wear socks to match the trousers.
Accessories
Cufflinks, a pocket square that complements rather than matches the tie and a tie pin can be worn. As ever, go for minimalist design and soft pastels in any accessory, rather than anything too overpowering. Grey Fox wore a beautiful porcelain buttonhole from Boutonnière London, image below.
General thoughts
If some of our advice sounds a little cautious, remember; if you're at a wedding the photos will be being studied for decades to come. Morning suits have the advantage of looking timeless. If you depart too far from the classic, with extravagant cravats, trendy shoes or bright shirts, those images will lack that timeless classic look.
At other events, part of the fun is being in a uniform enjoying the occasion. Departing too far from the dress code can leave you feeling self-conscious. That's fine if you're an extrovert, feel you want to make some obscure political point or are so sophisticated that you can pull it off with bravado. You can express individuality within the constraints of the dress code in choice of colour, cut (if you're lucky enough to buy bespoke or made to measure) and accessories. Relax and enjoy the event. Try to feel comfortable in your morning dress or you'll look very stiff and awkward.
At other events, part of the fun is being in a uniform enjoying the occasion. Departing too far from the dress code can leave you feeling self-conscious. That's fine if you're an extrovert, feel you want to make some obscure political point or are so sophisticated that you can pull it off with bravado. You can express individuality within the constraints of the dress code in choice of colour, cut (if you're lucky enough to buy bespoke or made to measure) and accessories. Relax and enjoy the event. Try to feel comfortable in your morning dress or you'll look very stiff and awkward.
I know that many readers here are from outside the UK. In general the rules over morning dress are more uniform worldwide than the black tie dress code, but I suggest you do your own research on local variation.
For video advice on suitable wear for Ascot, see Oliver Brown's video here.
