How to buy a suit that fits: featuring a Marks & Spencer suit

We buy suits to show ourselves off to our best advantage in our work, social or casual lives. Unless the suit we buy fits, we have wasted our money. Unfortunately many are bought without consideration of proper fit, so, in collaboration with Marks & Spencer, I've put together a guide to buying a well-fitting suit.

A suit that fits well looks and feels good - suit Autograph at M&S £199

To achieve the perfect fit you will need to buy a bespoke or made to measure suit. However, by following these guidelines you can buy a well-fitting off-the-peg product. 

The one I wear here costs £199 from Marks & Spencer's Autograph range. Made from soft and beautifully textured pure wool cloth, it's a bit of a bargain. I wouldn't claim the fit to be perfect, it's marginally large across the shoulders and the sleeves are a touch long and full, but the suit is off the peg unaltered and could be mistaken for a more expensive product. 

Buying the well fitting suit:

1. Know your chest, waist and leg length. The advantage of buying in store is that there will (generally) be staff who can advise and measure you. Select your suit on the basis of these measurements. When trying on the suit, stand in a relaxed and natural way.

2. Try on the jacket. It should fit comfortably and snugly across the shoulders; check the arm and body lengths (see below). The shoulder seam should be at the point where your shoulder drops to the upper arm, if the seam hangs beyond the shoulder tip, the shoulders are too large and the jacket will look out of proportion, even appearing to swamp the wearer.

Button the jacket using the middle button of three, or top button of two; never use the bottom button. It should button easily, without being too tight, or so loose that the front flaps around.

The jacket should fit snugly across shoulders and chest, the top of the sleeve at the fall of the shoulder

This jacket length is traditional, but is more elegant than the cropped modern style.
It's nicely waisted in shape. The arm length here is acceptable, if very slightly long (see below)

Ideally sleeve length allows a small amount of shirt cuff to show

3. Try on the trousers which should fit neatly around waist and backside. Too tight is unsightly and uncomfortable, too loose and there is an excess of cloth flapping around. For a traditionally cut suit, the trousers would break (fold slightly) above the shoe. A more modern, slimmer cut, trouser would have minimal break, reaching the very top of the shoe and no further.  The trousers I wear here take a middle course, cut slightly shorter than traditional, but without being as short as an extremely modern style.  

A good leg length. Too long and the whole suit will look ill-fitting

4. You will be very lucky if an off-the-peg suit fits you perfectly. If the suit supplier cannot alter it for you, most high streets have alterations tailors who will adjust leg and sleeve length and waist sizes. Other alterations can be done, to chest, shoulders etc, but are generally more major, expensive and less worthwhile. It's best to try another suit if too many significant alterations are needed. 

5. Wearing the suit. Stay relaxed. Imagine you're wearing jeans and jumper. If you think 'formal' you will look stiff and unnatural. The more you wear a suit, the more you will relax into it and you will look better as a result.

If you're not confident selecting ties and shirts, use a plain white or pale blue shirt, a knitted silk or polka dot tie in a contrasting colour and a pocket square that complements the tie, without matching it. As you get more adventurous, try other combinations. In general the best look will always involve minimal pattern and colour. 

To browse the Marks & Spencer range of suits click here. The ties, shirts, shoes and pocket squares shown are also from M&S.

Relax in your suit, going tieless is fine for smart casual

This feature was prepared in collaboration with Marks & Spencer.