The Grey Style Project - a style leader photographed in Covent Garden

I have a list of older men of style that I'd like to photograph for The Grey Style Project. High on this list was Gordon Richardson, Topman's Style Director, who I've met on several occasions. I'd been planning to ask him if he'd be photographed, but this turned out to be unnecessary as I bumped into him near Covent Garden when my sister and I were out with our cameras recently. A true gentleman.

Image © Carole Evans Photography and The Grey Style Project
For more on The Grey Style Project see here
And please follow the project on Tumblr.

Jackets and blazers for spring and summer

For spring and summer wear, the unstructured jacket, with linen, cotton, silk and even lightweight tweed or flannel components, is ideal. The absence of lining makes it lighter and cooler. Its informal shape means you can take it off and throw it over one arm without worrying about creases; they're all part and parcel of wearing lightweight jackets and, in my view, improve the looks.

Image origins not known - please get in touch if this is yours

Most jackets follow the conventional structured approach, with a lining and internal pockets - the fit is generally looser, thicker and more formed than the unstructured jacket, which has no (or only half) lining, fewer pockets (where do you put the lining? There will instead be external patch pockets).

Being unlined, the fit is usually closer, slimmer and more casual. It will follow the curve of the shoulders more closely and move with the wearer more easily. One of my favourites is an unlined tweed jacket bought at a Ralph Lauren sale. So comfortable is it that I wear it around the house like a familiar old cardigan. 

Image from Esquire

Nothing looks better for semi-formal or casual wear on men of any age than a blue unstructured blazer, cream or khaki chinos or jeans, a pale blue denim shirt, suede brogues or desert boots and a red polka dot pocket square (and some red socks). Add formality with a knitted silk tie in a plain or lightly spotted primary colour. 

Shortly I'll answer a reader's question about where to find unstructured jackets at all price levels.

Hackett half-lined linen Delave blazer from here 

Fashion Revolution Day. Who made your clothes?

One year on from the Rana Plaza building collapse in Bangladesh, which killed over 1,000 garment workers, Fashion Revolution Day is challenging people to wear an item of clothing inside out, look at the label and ask the brand “who made your clothes?” People will be doing this in over 60 countries, sharing images & stories on social media using the #insideout hashtag. 

Clothing suppliers should be able to tell us who made the clothes we buy, whether they're made here in the UK or abroad. Here are two shirt makers in India who are proud of the work they do making shirts for the UK market.

'Shankar - supremely skilled tailor'

Manju – tailor (and big fan of the Indian cricketer Mahendra Singh Dhoni)

Clare Lissaman, who sits on the board founder of the Ethical Fashion Forum and the Advisory Committee of Fashion Revolution Day and is a founder of Arthur & Henry, whose Indian-tailored shirts I've mentioned on this blog before, sent me these images of two of the tailors who make their shirts. 

Clare told me, "We know who makes our shirts. And as you can see from the pictures they are proud to tell others. They were keen to design and print out the signs themselves."

If the suppliers of your clothes cannot tell you who made your clothes how can you be sure their workers are well-treated and paid and working in safe conditions? Should you be buying from them?

The Grey Style Project - a very English gentleman for St George's Day

Taken in Jermyn Street, London - quintessential English style.

Image © Carole Evans Photography and The Grey Style Project

For more on The Grey Style Project see here
And please follow the project on Tumblr.

The Grey Style Project - Grey Country Style

Here's a contribution from a reader. This image was taken by Laurence's seven year-old daughter. His jacket was a present from his wife from Harvie & Hudson and he was concerned he looked too 'country squire'. Whether or not that was the case, I think his daughter has great potential as a photographer and I like the country style (and no, I didn't ask if that is Laurence's house in the background).

If you'd like to join the project (as photographer or subject) to document style in older men, please get in touch or click here.

With thanks to Laurence and his daughter

Cobalt blue and orange - putting sizzle into spring and summer

I've mentioned cobalt blue and orange before - but separately. Both have been seen more frequently over the last year or two. But how about putting the two colours together?

Deji George

Orange and bright blue work well together, as can be seen from the pocket square above from the interesting new brand, Deji George (about whom more here) . At opposite ends of the colour wheel, hot and cool, they positively crackle and pop when next to each other. Here's a selection to put sizzle into your spring and summer.

If you have any favourite orange/cobalt blue in your wardrobe or collection, let me know - I'm happy to do a follow-up post. Hmm... how about a bright blue blazer with orange chinos?

Hackett

Lyle & Scott

British Boxers - OK, they're worn underneath, but why not go the whole hog?

Jigsaw

Marks & Spencer

PinCollarShirts.co.uk

Marks & Spencer

Lyle & Scott

PinCollarShirts.co.uk

London Sock Co

Deji George pocket squares

Hackett lightweight mac

PinCollarShirts.co.uk

Marks & Spencer

Jigsaw Menswear

Lyle & Scott

London Sock Co

Fashion student Lizzie Atkins shows her National Tailoring and Design Award work

One of the greatest pleasures of writing a blog is being able to take an interest in emerging menswear design and retail talent. Regular readers will have seen my posts on new and young fashion entrepreneurs, but I haven't yet looked at the work of fashion students.  

Lizzie's design for a coat inspired by a military dispatch rider's jacket

I was intrigued when I heard about fashion student, Lizzie Atkins, who won the Bladen prize in the National Tailoring and Design Awards. 

Hundreds of students and recent graduates from across the country entered the competition; twenty were chosen as finalists and a final six won prizes from fashion companies in the UK. Lizzie, a student studying Fashion Design at the Arts University Bournemouth, won the Bladen award, a £500 cash prize.

Lizzie was kind enough to meet and show me her beautiful winning designs. She gave me much insight into how the best menswear is created. 

Here is part of our discussion - 

GF: Well done on winning a National Tailoring & Design award; how did this come about?

LA: Thank you! I am so excited to be part of the Savile Row National Tailoring awards and be selected as a winner for the Bladen award. I joined The Arts University Bournemouth with the intentions of graduating a womenswear designer, but after a spontaneous decision to try menswear, my interest in tailoring grew and became a passion and something I want to pursue as my career. The skill, craftsmanship and traditions are a few of the many things that draw me to this specialism.

GF: Tell me about the award.

LA: The competition is organised by The Savile Row Training Academy. My particular award was given by Bladen. I'm a final year student and the prize will help me fund the costs of a final collection. I visited the Bladen team at Wensum Tailoring in Norwich in March and was very excited to see the work which they do.

GF: Tell me about your winning entry.

LA: I designed two suits inspired by a World War II 1945 dispatch rider's coat using traditional simple tailored aesthetics. I found the coat at a car boot sale in the summer. Not knowing its story I was soon to discover through a bit of research that it was more than just the old rotting coat I paid £7 for. 

For those interested, the design process has been recorded in more detail here.

GF: What next for you? 

LA: I am creating my final collection, which is a collaboration between me and an artist (my father) David Atkins still incorporating traditional tailoring techniques and shapes. I have some interesting silhouettes developing so far and lots of colour! My father's work has always inspired me and the way I work so I'm very excited for this project. 

GF: What do you see yourself doing in the future?

LA: After university I intend to move to London, improve my tailoring skills through in house training and continue working very hard to kick start my career in the menswear industry. In ten years time I would dream of having the admirable skills of a Savile Row tailor and applying these skills in a job were I can design with my own personal creative style. I will continue to work hard and take as many opportunities and experiences as possible. 

Some of Lizzie's designs for her final collection

With many thanks to Lizzie Atkins, whose final collection I hope to feature in a future post.

The Grey Style Project - Savile Row 1

We visited Savile Row and the surrounding area earlier this week and had a very productive time. See also and follow The Grey Style Project on Tumblr. We'll be adding one or two images weekly.

All images © Carole Evans/Grey Fox 2014 - The Grey Style Project

Visit my sister, Carole Evans Photography, here.

For other Grey Style Project posts on this blog click here.

L'Eroica Britannia - a vintage cycle ride comes to the UK

L'Eroica - a ride for heroic bikes and riders

For some years a wonderful cycle ride has taken place annually in Tuscany. L'Eroica allows cyclists to ditch the Lycra and carbon fibre and relive those glorious days when steel bikes and woollen cycling jerseys ruled. It's a ride I've long planned to do and I was delighted when it was announced that it would be coming to the UK. L'Eroica Britannia takes place on 22nd June as part of a weekend of events in England's beautiful Peak District. It takes place just a few weeks before the Tour de France starts in nearby Yorkshire - a great summer of cycling in England.

The image below was taken on the Tuscan ride and shows the real spirit of the event.

Image L'Eroica

L'Eroica literally translates from Italian as 'the Heroes' and harks back to the glory days of Coppi, Merckx and Simpson, reviving the essence and romance of cycling. The ride uses trails and tracks of the Peak District similar to the historic dusty white (or sticky gluey when wet) roads of Tuscany, the 'Strade Bianchi’. Riders can choose either a 30 mile, 55 mile or the 'wo/man of steel' 100 mile route. Bikes must be pre-1987 (with a few exceptions on the short ride) and vintage cycling clothing should be worn. I've registered, but I understand that the ride is nearly full, so act fast if you want to participate.

For more information and to register, visit the L'Eroica Britannia website.

The Peak District - scene of the first L'Eroica Britannia

Deji George - a new pocket square brand

The rise in popularity of pocket squares has been spectacular - most self-respecting menswear shops sell them - but it's rare to find designs which really stand out. Readers will know my love of the highly original and humorous Age of Reason squares and (I hope) will all have bought one of the limited edition Age of Reason/Grey Fox collaboration squares. 

Now another brand has caught my eye - Deji George. These squares blend sartorial and cultural influences to produce designs which are original and colourful - and have hand-stitched edges. I'm a fan.

Pocket squares available from Deji George

Age of Reason/Grey Fox pocket square

The Grey Style Project - Vintage Street Style, South Bank, London

Mahmud on the South Bank, London, collects and wears vintage menswear. Image by Carole Evans.

All images © Carole Evans/Grey Fox 2014 - The Grey Style Project

Crafted - Makers of the Exceptional at Royal Academy until 5th April 2014

It was a chance meeting at the Royal Academy yesterday with my friend, tailor Pip Howeson, that alerted me to an exhibition that I strongly urge you to visit if you're in London over the next day or so.

Walpole British Luxury runs an annual mentoring programme which pairs contemporary makers with British luxury brands. The chosen craftsmen are exhibiting at the Crafted showcase, in association with Vacheron Constantin, at the Royal Academy, Burlington Gardens, from 3-5 April 2014. Mentors will help develop the business acumen of each maker (Pip Howeson included) throughout the coming year. 

Derby boot in textured hide by CarreDucker

The breadth of the skills on display is impressive, from Pip Howeson's outstanding tailoring, through Fair Isle knitwear, shoemakers, leather goods, pottery, jewellery to furnishing, hats and plasterwork. As a showcase of British craftsmanship it's an outstanding event and I suggest you visit if you can. It's very exciting to see so many British craftspeople in one place. I hope to write about a few of these brands in future. Details of opening times below.

Hand-modelled stucco panel by Geoffrey Preston

Fair Isle knitwear by Mati Ventrillon, Fair Isle, Scotland

Pip Howeson (who tailors for men and women)

London calling plates for Royal Doulton by Charlene Mullen

Replica of William Morris's satchel by Mia Sabel

Free entry for the public.

Thursday 3 April 10am-6pm

Friday 4 April 10am-6pm

Saturday 5 April 10am-6pm

Universal Works - workshop denim jeans made in England

Universal Works have sourced 13oz denim made in Portugal on vintage narrow looms and made two styles of jeans in central England. As with all the best jeans, the denim is raw - no artificial distressing - allowing them, with time, to acquire that natural wear and patina of well-used denim which cannot be beaten by man-made ageing processes.

Available in slim and regular fits from Oi Polloi and Peggs & Son from April 4th - price £135. Also available at Universal Works online or at 37 Lambs Conduit Street and 40 Berwick Street, London.

If you're an older man in two minds about wearing denims, you may like to read this.

Regular fit

Slim fit

A reader asks - how can I find a jacket that fits me?

Dear Grey Fox,

If you would be so kind, I could do with some help on jacket and blazer sizing. I am trying to find a tweed jacket (Harris if possible and UK/Irish made) and finding it difficult to find something off-the-peg that looks and fits right. 

Jacket length - too short, long, just right?

I am 5'11", 33" waist, 39" chest and 11st 9lbs. What I am finding in the shops looks very long on me, especially compared with the more modern styles modelled on websites where the models seem to go to the other extreme of wearing undersized jackets. Salesmen in gents outfitters tell me that the jacket should cover the seat (their word!) and the jacket bottom falling next to the thumb knuckles.

Your jacket shown on the blog looks good and seems to conform to this advice, but it doesn't look quite right on me. Possibly my tall skinny build might be something to do with the aesthetics. Additionally because my chest is 39", I have tended to go up to 40" rather than down to 38" even though the actual sizes are 4.5 to 5" larger, thus giving room for a sweater without feeling "bunched up". Is this a mistake by your reckoning?

Image The Sartorialist

Possibly I am asking too much of a sports jacket, when I should just get the Barbour or pea-coat out in colder weather. If you can give any advice on the above, even if it's that I need to go bespoke, I will be very grateful. Possibly I need to mentally re-adjust from wearing technical and casual clothing for too long.

I have now got used to wearing the trilby and today bought a flat cap as you advised before (click here). Finally, well done on joining Esquire's top 20 well dressed men on Instagram (see link below). 

Grey Fox replies -

Many thanks for your question and comments. I'd hate you to give up the search for a tweed jacket, so I've asked my tailor, Susannah Hall, for advice. I agree there's a taste for jackets worn short in the body - often, in my view, extremely so - so this may be distorting your expectations. Fit, proportion and comfort are all important when it comes to choosing clothes, so how can you find a jacket that feels right for you?

Susannah suggests that (like me) you are tall and slim, giving problems finding jackets sized to the proportions you need. She says, 

If one is on the taller side, a short jacket will make you look taller; if too long, it will elongate the body, making you look thinner - you can't win! Your proportions mean that you will find it hard to find an off-the-peg jacket, making bespoke the best solution.

Image The Sartorialist

A jacket should cover your 'seat', not everybody likes a 'bumfreezer'. When I judge the length of a jacket I ask the client to cup his fingers so that the jacket edge sits in his hand. This method is less reliable if a client has arms that are proportionately long or short, so I make a judgement based on experience and the balance of the look. I suspect that this judgement needs to be made in your case.

If you buy a jacket a size too large you will find that the shoulders are too large (and possibly too long in the body) and sculpting the waist may still leave the jacket too roomy.

The best option for you would be to buy bespoke and it can be cut to your preference if you like to wear a sweater or waistcoat. I suspect you are a similar build to Grey Fox; he also finds that the ideal fit cannot be found off-the-peg.

Click here to visit the website of Susannah Hall tailors.

Esquire's The 20 Most Stylish Men on Instagram.