New: designed and made in Britain shirts from Evocha

A new web-based business launched yesterday and I mention it because many of their products are made in the UK.

Evocha say they have set out to create a range of luxury essentials. So, for example, the men's range includes some beautifully-made (in England) Oxford button-down shirts, while the women's includes a little black dress - both wardrobe essentials.

Click here for more about the shirts and watch a video about their production.

Grey Fox image

Guest post - A collection of vintage leather bags - Holdall and Co

I love old leather goods, polished to a patina by age and use. I knew that Raimonda Navickaite, founder of Holdall & Co, had a collection of old leather bags which has influenced her beautifully-made leather folios (see here). 

Knowing her passion for the sort of quality that lasts through generations, I approached her and she kindly agreed to write about her collection for Grey Fox.

How often have you found yourself carrying something with sentimental value? A watch once worn by your grandfather, a jacket handed down from your father or the leather wallet you received on your 18th birthday? These things are no longer just objects, but follow you through life like an old friend, reminding you of the journey that it had been on previously in others' hands and the journey that it has joined you on. These are precious memories that you will cherish for ever.

A few of my favourite bags

My own journey of buying second hand or 'vintage' (as we like to call it these days) started some 8 years ago when I bought my first bag. I remember picking it out of a small collection of bags and instantly falling in love with it: a little worn clutch that nobody seemed to want. From the moment I picked it up, my mind started racing; imagining all of the places it might have been to, who could have previously owned it and the stories it held - I couldn't help but feel fortunate to own something with history and to have the chance to be part of the next chapter. Soon after, I went off to study at a university in Yorkshire and found some amazing vintage places to spend my overdraft on; from there my collection of vintage bags and cases seemed to grow steadily.

A lovely, simple document pouch, large enough to fit US legal documents, with a clever locking zip to keep everything safe.

So here I am writing a guest post for the very lovely Mr Grey Fox, who thought that you might enjoy seeing some of my favourites. I must state that not every one of the bags in the pictures is usable and some are in need of repair, but I can't help but enjoy owning them, even if for now they sit on a shelf.

There are many aspects of these bags that I enjoy, but of all, my favourite is the badge they proudly bear: 'Made in England'. You can't help but imagine the time that someone had spent designing it down to the smallest detail, to the people that had put it together piece by piece, starting out with nothing more than a hide of leather and a cutting knife.

A stunning briefcase; with a really masculine lock on the front and a comfortable padded handle for when you've weighted it down with all of your work.

This is all the more important, especially for my generation who have grown up believing that most things are made solely by machines - we disassociate ourselves from these products and the people that play a part in their production. There's something special in knowing that someone whom you've never meet has put their care and attention into making a beautiful product for you to enjoy.

As a credit to good design, I'm always surprised that even though these bags were designed and made decades ago, how relevant they are in our life today. How the simplicity of the design has become classic and now effortlessly blends with its surroundings as fashion makes its way back.

I love the shape; it reminds me of the arches at old railway stations.

We seemed to have become so used to our 'throwaway' choice of life, from the plastic cups and plates we take to eat with to the fashion we wear. As fun as it might be to wear the season's latest trends, we seem to have lost a great deal of respect for our belongings in return. We no longer care for them like people used to. Repairing and restoring things seems to be quiet rare, and worse, fewer and fewer of us have things that have been passed down to us or even have something that can be passed down to our children. Our high streets seem to be filled with disposable goods, making it hard to find items designed to be cared for or made from the quality materials needed to last, a reason for which I see many people like myself turned to buying more vintage items.

Even though it's in need of some repairs, this satchel style briefcase is my favourite of them all; a practical and friendly looking bag with the perfect proportions.

Summing up what I love most about these bags; simple construction finished with a classic British Cheney lock and the echoes of its past owners (charming hints at the bag's life in Birmingham and Wales - I wonder if anybody still does this?)

Last but not least the classic 'Gladstone' style case. Incredibly heavy so it wouldn't make a very practical hand luggage case for today's traveller, but in its day would have made a really dominant statement with its bold and brash looks; nothing is subtle with the sturdy riveted corners, unwelcoming hinges, large stitching or with its sheer size.

Just over 12 months ago I started a little company called Holdall & Co. It has been 4 years since I graduated from my Fashion Design degree, worked for a couple of fashion companies and managed to find my true passion: learning how things are made. My degree fuelled my inquisitiveness to learn more about the people behind the products and I became passionate about the various crafts we still have in England, especially the leather craft which the country has been renowned for, for hundreds of years; I guess with my then existing collection of bags to inspire me, it was a natural route for me to take.

Holdall & Co folio

My collection of bags has been important to the design process of the Holdall & Co Folios and helped to establish the design principles:

- Simple and timeless: to ensure that it doesn't look dated and out of place in 5-10 years time; even though fashion always comes back round, I didn't want there to be a wait to be 'on trend'.
- Practical: decide what it will be used for and make sure it serves its purpose.
- Clever: even though the design is simple, it still needs thought and ingenuity; like the umbrella/newspaper loop neatly concealed on the back.
- British: most of my favourite vintage bags and cases were made in England and I knew that mine also had to be made in England; I searched hard to find one of the last remaining case and luggage makers in the country.
- Quality: the bags have to stand the test of time; from the materials to the workmanship, I've given them the greatest chance by using the best I could find.

For previous posts on Grey Fox about Holdall & Co click here.

Grey Vixen writes - Silver foxes in sheep's clothing - men who dye their hair

Silver Foxes in Sheep’s Clothing

By Sabine Reichel

What does Grey Vixen think of men who dye their hair?

Women always kind of loved them; the older grey-haired gents with the twinkly eyes who were so damn authentic and sexy, manly and carefree - who didn't give a hoot about their fading youth. It used to be just us women, whose existential desire for gorgeous hair is legendary, who eagerly covered up any treacherous grey roots as fast as we could. Men were smiling at such folly – and we kind of envied them for their coolness and self-confidence, didn't we? 

How times have changed!

Does he or doesn't he? 

'Does she or doesn't she?' asked Clairol in the famous American hair colour advert. of the sixties. The she has now become a he. And yes, he does! As much as he can. This hair-colour frenzy is a terrible trend. All around us we see peculiar browns and blacks on what would otherwise be heads in many shades of grey – and some men who insist that the glorious mahogany hair is a generous gift from Mother Nature and not from L’Oreal, Paris. 

But why are men delusional enough to believe that they can fool nature and the people around them with hair that practically begs for attention? 'Look at me, I’m NOT grey!' Yes, Paul McCartney, Ricky Gervais and Liam Neeson – we are talking about you, too!

My personal favourite is the two-toned Mafia-style hair that has become a trademark of older businessmen and politicians who have seen better days (think Mitt Romney, if anybody remembers). It’s the kind of teaser-hair that says, 'I’ll give you my suave grey sideburns to drool over, but I'm not ready yet to go all the way!'

Naturally, the world of entertainment is still the place for baffling hair colour. Elvis was the first unabashed fan of the blue-ish black dye previously reserved for Snow White, ravens, Elizabeth Taylor, Tony Curtis and Rock Hudson. But that was the fifties and the heyday of Technicolor that brought out a wild love affair with everything garish. Today, the gentleman who dyes is more sloppy and adventurous in his choice of hues and colours.

The list of shame is long and varied. Whatever happened to the chic pepper-and-salt-hair of actor Benicio del Toro? He now looks like he’s wearing a cheap black fur hat. Sure, Sean Penn is busy, and we salute him for his humanitarian efforts, but does that mean he must scare people with a strange reddish hue on his greying head? And look at Ricky Gervais, a really funny man with much too much dark colour all over his hair and beard, all of which only distracts from his perversely biting jokes.

Ricky Gervais - image The Guardian

Good news come from Al Pacino, who used to be in the hands of fanatical hair colourists who who dyed his hair, beard and eyebrows a colour so dark that he looked like a caricature of an old fashioned magician drawn in black coal. A recent photo of Al shows him in his natural grey, as is appropriate for a 73 old man. Maybe it’ll inspire Liam Neeson who, ironically, played the lead in the blockbuster The Grey, except that HE wasn't  As it is often with men who have a less than glorious head of hair, they overcompensate with an extra dash of bad colour.

And here we must have a quick word about the male hair colour palette, because it seems to be inspired by the animal kingdom. There’s the classic horse and Bambi brown, followed by Dachshund, Irish setter and red fox. This is all nice and natural and looks fabulous on our four- legged friends! But on Nicolas Cage, John Travolta, Arnold Schwarzenegger, Elton John and Italy’s Bad Berlusconi, who have both hair implants and fake colour, that reddish hue looks ghastly.

Men who dye their hair are usually stubborn. Asked why they dye their hair – actually nobody admits it – but let’s say they would, they’d come up with the two most unconvincing arguments even the most naive and colour blind onlooker can’t be fooled by. 1. It looks totally natural. 2. It makes them look younger! 

No, it doesn't. On both accounts. So why do even “younger” men like Tom Cruise and Robert Downey Jr. succumb to the pressure to be frozen in time? Couldn't one be proud of a shock of silvery hair and wear it with style and aplomb? Sure, it isn't easy being old(er) in this youth-obsessed society, but men don’t even NEED to colour their hair because society values grey temples on men so much more than on women, and sees them as a sexy sign for experience and worldliness. Why not be old-fashioned and trendsetting and be proud of your roots?

The only problem I can see in being grey for the regular men these days is the big challenge when it comes to competition. It’s near to impossible to look as debonair as the Glamour-Greyhounds Cary Grant and George Clooney or as imperial as Richard Gere and Sean Connery.  But it’s worth a try! So let’s salute the men who dare to show off their silver in a casual, confident manner like Robert De Niro, Michael Douglas, Jay Leno, David Lynch, Bill Clinton. Is there any older man sexier than Jeff Bridges with his glorious mane of greyish locks? 

Jeff Bridges in GO 2010

British men, may be less vain and more self-assured than their American counterparts, fare real well on the grey fox front – Ian McKellen, Anthony Hopkins, Hugh Laurie, Jeremy Irons, Daniel Day-Lewis - all look fantastic. On the other hand, Ian McShane’s hair is a bit black, isn’t it? Gary Oldman looks a touch refreshed at the roots, so does Colin Firth, and Jason Isaacs looks like a fearless hair colour aficionado.

I'm a grey-haired rock-chick, so it is comforting to see that most ageing rock stars doesn't embarrass themselves and therefore me and my generation. They are the proud carriers of natural hair – from Jimmy Page, Robert Plant and Neil Young to Ringo, Leonard Cohen, Charlie Watts, David Byrne, Bob Dylan and even old tousel-hair Keith Richards. But Paul McCartney lives in the past. For a while now, Sir Paul dons a very unfortunate reddish brown on his boyish haircut (where is Stella McCartney, talking some sense into Daddy’s artificially darkened head?) and if anybody could tell me what happened to poor Ray Davis’ hair...

So, dear Gentlemen of the card-carrying dye-hard-party, let’s be grown-up about this and sing together with Paul the new song of freedom called “Let it be!”

Winners of the Age of Reason/Grey Fox silk square naming competition announced

There were two joint winners of the Age of Reason/Grey Fox silk pocket square naming competition. Both chose the name 'handcuffchief', which Ali and I loved. Well done Nick and Jonathan, both from London, your silk pocket squares are on their way to you.

See the Age of Reason website for more on their made and designed in England scarves and pocket squares.

The 'Handcuffchief' pocket square from Age of Reason

Alan Paine Autumn/Winter 2013 - Grey Fox Models 12

Some weeks ago I promised to show you the Autumn/Winter 2013 collection from British knitwear brand Alan Paine, starring the older bearded model used in previous campaigns. 

The range comprises 75 colours and, although not manufactured in the UK, is made using lambswool and Geelong spun in England by the same supplier that the brand has worked with for over 60 years, Z. Hinchliffe and Sons, who have over 250 years of dying and spinning expertise.

Alan Paine’s English Explorer collection is inspired by the brand’s connection with the eminent English mountaineer, George Mallory who took part in three expeditions to Mount Everest, the final one being his last when he and his climbing partner, Sandy Irvine, disappeared on the North-East ridge on 8th June 1924. It is still not known whether they reached the summit.

Mallory's frozen body was discovered 75 years after his disappearance.  Several items of clothing were recovered, one bearing the label W.F. Paine, Godalming; the shop owned by Alan Paine’s father, William Paine, and the place where William founded his knitwear business in 1907. 

The Alan Paine Autumn/Winter 2013 collection will shortly be available from select stores and www.alanpaine.co.uk.

Win two tickets to ‘In Conversation with Dylan Jones’ in London’s emerging fashion district, Victoria

Win two tickets to ‘In Conversation with Dylan Jones’ in London’s emerging fashion district, Victoria - 31st July 2013 from 6.30pm

Victoria is fast becoming London’s most vibrant style hub, re-inventing itself as home to some of the world’s most colourful leading fashion and design names including Burberry, Jimmy Choo and Tom Ford. Led by Land Securities' £2 billion investment, this transformation is making Victoria a place where Londoners and visitors alike want to live, work, shop and socialise thanks to its great restaurants, shops and regular events.

As part of this, Land Securities is hosting a series of In Conversation events in 2013 at super-stylish new building 62 Buckingham Gate. Hot on the heels of the debut event, hosted by artist Grayson Perry, is GQ Editor Dylan Jones on 31 July from 6.30pm. 

Dylan, well-known in the fashion world, will be sharing his wisdom on men’s fashion and London style – and Grey Fox has two tickets to give away. 

All that I ask is that you follow Grey Fox on Twitter, Facebook or Pinterest (or all three!) and drop me an e-mail through the blog here to say you've done it before Friday 26th July. I'll pick a winner from these e-mails at random and let you know by e-mail. I'm hoping to go as well, so hope to meet the winners there.

I won't use your e-mail addresses for anything else.

For more information check out createvictoria.com

A reader asks - dressing after 40 (part 3) - keep it simple

I'm concluding this three part post responding to a reader who asked how to dress now he'd reached his fortieth birthday with a thought that's only come to me recently. Often the most successful style involves keeping it simple.

The simplicity of the look enhances the real sense of style. Image The Sartorialist

Everyone's tastes differ - luckily - but I find myself increasingly influenced by really uncomplicated looks based on straightforward shapes and colour. We're programmed from early in our sartorial lives to think about pattern and colour and how it all goes together. We get used to the idea that complexity here is the norm. Does that colour shirt go with this patterned tie with this pocket square and that blazer?

Forget all that and think about -

1. Form - is what we're wearing well-fitting and simple in shape?

2. Colour - are the colours complementary, restrained and, above all, uncluttered?

Once we are happy here we can turn to number 3:

3. Do we want to add to this basic and straightforward structure with a single bold splash of colour and/or pattern (in a tie or pocket square for example) that draws attention to, but doesn't detract from, the basic simplicity of form and colour?

The honesty of the look enhances the real sense of style. Think classical Greek architecture, think minimalism.

What do you think?

Image The Sartorialist

Grey Vixen writes - a reply to the last Grey Vixen post on 'jiggly bits'

The first Grey Vixen writes post by Sabine Reichel received an overall favourable response - but some disagreed with Sabine's approach. I thought I would welcome a Grey Vixen guest post putting forward the alternative view - and here it is.

I'm grateful to Clair Woodward, a friend from Twitter, for agreeing to write this.

Image Daily Mail

Grey Vixen writes - a reply to Careful it Jiggles...

I remember Victoria Wood trotting out a ridiculous line from a teenage magazine from her youth: 'Play down a large bust with a scarf with a little brooch'. That's what first came to mind when I read Sabine Reichel's Grey Fox guest post about covering up the older lady's 'jiggly' bits. I laughed - and then felt disappointed that a blog which successfully guides and advises older men about stylish, age-appropriate dressing was featuring the boring and negative stuff that women have been reading for years.

I really am not interested in another woman telling me that I should cover up my less than firm flesh - Christ knows what she'd think of my arms. They're fairly unflabby, but I've got psoriasis, a fairly unattractive skin condition on them. If Sabine had seen me yesterday (on a boat on a hot day) in a sleeveless dress, she'd probably have had a  fit, and would have preferred it if I'd slipped on a fisherman's roll-neck sweater so I didn't frighten the horses.

Maybe it's because Sabine used to be a model that she notices certain 'imperfections' in women as they get older. Me, not so much. Once you get to a certain age, you know what does and doesn't suit you, and dress accordingly. You also realise that some of the old balls you've been taught by the media about not having good legs/cankles/a big enough bust/too big a  bust/too saggy a bust is simply a value judgment, not a rule to live by.

'I don’t like to stare at ageing armpits – it’s creepy. Sorry,' writes Sabine. My dear, our armpits are all ageing, and what is wrong with that? If at over 40, you're horrified at the thought of a body that is changing with the years, you really should get real.

There's been a meme going around the internet recently advising women on how to 'get a bikini body'. It advises to get a bikini and put it on your body. And that's it. No writer on male style and fashion would advise on 'how to disguise an unattractive paunch'  or say 'that wattly neck makes me want to vomit!'. Us women have been putting up with that kind of nonsense for years, and now we are older, we have the confidence to dress the way we like without being judged.

So, Grey Fox, if you are going to offer some advice for the laydeez in future, can we have more advice on where to get great clothes, shoes and accessories, with a few knowlegeable tips, rather than being told that our underarms are creepy, and that we don't look as good as we used to? We look different, not dying.

CLAIR WOODWARD

GF - This ends the debate here on the blog - but please e-mail or comment below if you wish to make a constructive point.

M&S best of British in Mail Online and Grey Fox joins 'the style set'

The Mail Online reviews M&S's wonderful Best of British collection and quotes from my post here about it. Grey Fox has apparently joined the style set.

See The Mail Online post here.

The rise of British-made menswear - E Tautz and Patrick Grant video

Some of you may have seen my post on my Guardian Fashion Blogs Network about The exciting rebirth of British menswear manufacturing. If you haven't, please take a look here as I talk about an issue close to my heart.

Patrick Grant, of E. Tautz, contacted me to tell me that much of the E.Tautz collection is made in the UK and he drew my attention to this video in which he takes a road trip around some of their UK manufacturers, seeing some great craftsmanship and products.

Here it is - enjoy! These and the others in the series can be found on YouTube. Beautifully-made, I found watching them quite moving at times, seeing the skills, honesty and modesty that's displayed by the craftsmen and women involved. They deserve a wide audience.

Vintage cycling jerseys - a Tour de France special

I promised many months ago to show you some of my vintage cycling jersey collection. The Tour de France provides the excuse. 

I love their colour and vibrancy; many have beautifully-embroidered lettering. Made of wool, or knitted acrylic, they're uncomfortable to wear in hot weather and are reminders of the rough, tough days of professional cycling.

Anquetil and Merckx

Guest post: Menswear, British designed and made - Daniel Jenkins of Purposeful Activity

Daniel Jenkins of Purposeful Activity is on a mission to design and supply the best British-made menswear and to support British clothing manufacturers.

Dan kindly agreed to share his enthusiasm with Grey Fox readers. Here he explains how he works the British menswear manufacturing industry, discusses the future and expresses his dislike of fake 'British heritage' menswear.

Dan Jenkins of Purposeful Activity

When I started my own business 6 years ago, the menswear retail world was quite a different place. The journey from then to now has been interesting. We've probably seen the biggest shift in how we approach the way we create, sell and market clothes since the end of WW2.

It has become trendy and fashionable to engage with Britishness and the traditional garments of these isles. This, coupled with the success of ‘London Collections Men’ as a launch pad for new and emerging talent and a magnet to the best known labels to show their wares in London, has led to friends of mine, who care little about clothing, discussing Craig Green, Agi & Sam et al with as much knowledge as they would apply to D&G.

If I’d have known this when we started then I’d be patting myself on the back. We had little idea that this was around the corner. Our decision to support young talent from the UK was initially borne out of a sense of frustration.

I’m proud as punch that we’ve worked with many of the new leading lights in British-made menswear. I get excited when I see press for the likes of Lou Dalton because I see the huge amounts of work they’ve put in to reach that level.

As an organisation we could quite happily have carried on doing that. However, I firmly believe that it’s important to test yourself and try to make a difference in whatever you do.

It’s easy to become disheartened if you listen to the discussions about the difficulty of working within the current British system. Yes, we have the world's best creative talent, great media, ready customer base. But, too often young labels suffer with production issues. That may be because they are unable to meet minimums, or sometimes it’s simply because they become constrained by a system that can be one size fits all.

I was aware of the good intentions of many but, felt that instead of coasting along I had to do something. Why wasn’t it possible to opt out of the current system, manufacture products here, which stood up against anything else available?

My premise is to create elegant, simple, well-made garments using the best British factories possible and to charge a fair price. Then, taking that idea of simplicity, apply it to our business model - forgoing large unwieldy collections, focussing on individual products, all paid for by the revenue generated by previous sales.

This way of doing things is long-term. It would be easy, if not cynical, to launch a quick five-season label, manufacture in the Far East, make a ton of cash and then go off and do something else. Sadly for my accountant, that doesn't appeal to me. I’d rather grow slowly, while building real relationships with factories.

One of the great things about using British factories is that I can be at any of them within a few hours. If I want to try something, I can phone up our shirting factory and a sample will be on my desk the next morning. It's the same with tailoring and underwear. You lose that when you base your production in a country other than your own. The ability to look someone in the eye and talk to them is vital.

All of our factories are wonderfully different, from our newish tailoring & outerwear factory through to our 100 year old shirting manufacturer and our very traditional, yet world-leading, underwear maker. They are all experts who can tell me to stop being so silly, but can also properly replicate my vision. I have no need to challenge them about finishing a seam properly, it’s just done.

They know you want the best, so they don’t bother with anything else. It’s a real pleasure to watch them work. To see skills honed over generations. It leads to a product which I'm proud to be associated with and to have my name attached to.

This morning, first thing, I was at the mill that weaves our tweed looking at their new loom. I’m writing this with a small piece of new fabric next to me that I watched being woven this morning. We might turn it into something we might not. I like that freedom.

Unfortunately, there isn't a “yellow pages” for manufacturers. It’s a case of phoning people, trial & error and frankly realising that your initial reaction was correct. I enjoy the challenge of finding a new gem. However, the difficulty finding manufacturers is one of the downfalls of the industry.

Another downfall, which may become an issue for consumers, is the trend towards espousing high-church englishness but, not committing to British production. I'm a businessman I understand the commercial realities involved with foreign production but, I just don't buy the sometimes-used argument that our factories aren't good enough to produce these items. Covering something in union flags and making it elsewhere places a strain upon those that produce here.

So the question is what next? The last two years has seen a shift away from British fashion’s love of a party. Whether it’s the new financial realities of the world we live in or something else I’m not sure, but, for the first time, you can see small scale producers creating menswear which will be both interesting and (whisper it) profitable.

This is great in the short term. However, we need to change the mindset of the population at large. If we can get large numbers of people interested in British-made basics then large scale producers will return to the UK, so stimulating the economy and creating jobs. It would also, I believe, lead to a drop in the price of clothing made here, making us even more competitive worldwide. Simple really. 

Click here for Purposeful Activity British-made menswear.

British underwear for men - patriotic to the core!

Sir Plus

[I have edited this post in July to clarify some of the suppliers who have confirmed that they genuinely manufacture here in the UK. Unfortunately this exercise has confirmed for me how much of a minefield this area is and how easy it is to assume British manufacture from 'British Heritage' type advertising - I've learned a painful lesson. Additional supplier added in August].

There was a time when a British gentleman's underwear would have been British-made. Alas, no more. However, Grey Fox, has found some genuine UK-made boxers to enable you too to fly the flag with your underwear.

I've even found out that I live within a couple of miles of an underwear factory - how exciting is that?

Purposeful Activity

You too can now show your patriotism by wearing underwear designed and made in Britain. Here are a few makers of genuine British boxer shorts.

Purposeful Activity - a company rooted in the British-made approach.
Sir Plus Clothing - clothing made from cabbage, surplus fabrics - very sustainable.
Tender Co. Trestle Shop - they tell me that their boxers are English-made from English woven cotton. This is a lovely site and many other interesting things are sold - I suggest a look.
Burtonwode - have confirmed to me that they make their boxers shorts here.
British Boxers - read the fascinating story behind these genuinely UK-made boxers.
Udeshi - the website describes boxers as made in London.

I've contacted the following suppliers to ask for confirmation of UK manufacture, but haven't yet had replies, so I leave it to the reader to confirm this, or otherwise -

Derek Rose
Sunspel

Hamilton and Hare - have now confirmed that their boxers are made in Portugal, using buttons, labels, silk from the UK.

Finisterre - they make their boxer shorts in Portugal, so strictly don't meet my criteria here, but I'm including them because they source Merino wool for some of their products from Devon Fine Fibres, who breed sheep to produce superfine merino wool in SW England.

If your products aren't here, get in touch and I'll add you in a follow up (and make sure you follow Grey Fox on Twitter so you don't miss any more calls for British products).

Sir Plus Clothing - brilliant video

I picked up my Sir Plus waistcoat earlier this week and met Henry Hales, Mr Sir Plus himself. He showed me this wonderful video which captures the spirit and humour of this purveyor of clothes made from cabbage.

Don't fail to visit Sir Plus and order your waistcoat, boxer shorts, cap, knitwear, socks, t-shirt, etc etc.

Sinn wristwatches - design and technology

Watches are an often-overlooked part of the man of style's wardrobe. A good watch, well-designed and fit for purpose, says much about the owner.

Regulars here will know my love of watches. I tend to go for simple, military-inspired watches because they have been designed minimally for two purposes; to be easily readable and robust. You don't need complex, vulnerable, hard-to-see timepieces when you have more important things to do.

Sinn 756 UTC

Because of this heritage, military-inspired designed watches tend to be used by people of action; pilots, climbers, adventurers, mountaineers are among those attracted to their practical robustness.

Sinn 556

One brand which I bought early in my career as a watch enthusiast was Sinn. The company was founded originally by Helmut Sinn, a flying instructor who couldn't find what he needed on the watch market, so he designed his own robust and easy to read wristwatches.

The company was later bought by an ex-IWC engineer. IWC is a company with a long and honourable history of robust and high quality timepieces, one of the most famous of which was bought by the RAF in the fifties as a chronometer (meeting very high levels of accuracy) wristwatch for navigation.

Sinn 140 chronograph

As you'd expect from this pedigree, Sinn watches are highly-engineered and quality pieces of kit. The specifications include argon filled cases, hydro oil filled cases, air-dehumidifying technology, a lubrication free DIAPAL mechanical movements, super-hard watches cases, anti-magnetic protection. More recently Sinn initiated TESTAF, the first ever standard to define pilot's watches in professional use.

Sinn 660M

The Sinn range is large, with most models coming in a wide range of options for case and dial colour, strap or bracelet choice, modern or more classic designs and some having features such as a UTC function which allows time to be kept in separate time zones for those who travel. Prices range from about £570 and are reasonable given the quality and technology involved.

Sinn 903 chronograph

You can find Sinn watches at Page and Cooper who also stock other highly-thought of makes, such as Damasko (which I can also highly recommend from personal experience) and Squale, who have a long tradition of making highly-functional divers' watches.

This was post written in association with Page and Cooper and Sinn.

A look that inspires 3 - the well-dressed older man

This elegant gentleman is dressed in a way I like very much.

A plain, well-cut and fitting linen jacket with brass buttons, striped shirt, jeans that fit perfectly and look as though they have worn naturally (I dislike artificially-distressed jeans) and good quality loafers and socks. Above all, he looks relaxed and comfortable in his clothes.

Simple, stylish and effective.

Image from The Styleograph

Hackett SS14 at London Collections:Men - video

I was at this spectacular show at London Collections: Men last month. There was a touch of anglicised Gatsby, soft colours, checks, boaters, hats and cricket bats. Good classic menswear with that Hackett flair.

The London Philarmonia played and all was right with the world. You'll have to sit through a short advert before this video I'm afraid, but it is about delicious food.

Mature male style - Peter Mullan in Esquire this month

It's good to see the normally youth-oriented Esquire publishing an excellent article featuring Scottish actor and grey fox icon, Peter Mullan.

We need more of this sort of fashion journalism - firstly to persuade older men that they can dress in contemporary style without feeling out of place, and, secondly, to knock it home to the fashion industry that they are missing out by ignoring this vast and affluent demographic.

I'm not surprised to see Oliver Spencer among the clothes Mullan wears - in fact I'm sure that the jacket on the right in the final shot is the one featured in my post on Oliver Spencer here (and is, at the time of writing, in the OS sale).

See more in this edition of Esquire, in the shops now. All images from Esquire magazine.

Desirable Objects 4 - Campbell-Cole key wrap, British designed and made.

This is the smallest of my Desirable Objects series so far, but it hits far above its weight. Some may feel that the humble key-ring doesn't deserve such quality or such sensual impact - after all, all it does is hold keys.

But we shouldn't underestimate this important task and neither did Ian Campbell-Cole, founder (along with his partner, Felicity Baggett) of Campbell-Cole. He has designed an object that is high quality, British-made through and through and ideal for purpose. He tells me that it is one of the things he is most proud of so far.

This is how he describes it -

"The wire rope unscrews for easy loading of keys (no more battling with a ring snap), whilst a Sam Brown stud keeps the Key Wrap securely closed.

The leather originates from Northern Irish cattle and is veg tanned in the Midlands in one of the last remaining UK based tanneries. The soft, waxy nature of the leather will ensure that the Key Wrap will quickly develop a unique patina through use.

The hand applied edge coating and embossed Campbell Cole logo are the finishing touches to a quality essential that no one should be without."

I agree - but would add that the wrap also smells lovely - luxury leather! The keys are held snugly and neatly within the leather wrap and it's clearly a well-thought out object - as is anything of good design.

Loving young and exciting British businesses as I do, I will be writing more about Campbell-Cole soon. Meanwhile see their website for more information.

For more in the Desirable Objects series, click here.

Grey Vixen writes: Careful, it jiggles! The Sins of Summer by Sabine Reichel

Introducing 'Grey Vixen writes':

I realise that many of Grey Fox's readers are women. They are either looking for ideas for dressing their partners with style, or maybe (vain hope?) they just like well-dressed older men. Whatever, I felt it was time to offer you, dear female readers, an occasional Grey Vixen column to give you relief from endless cuff links and boxer shorts - and highlight some fashionable female topics and views.

And, dear male reader, don't go away! Stick around for beautiful and stylish women; read about their jiggly bits (not my words, see below) and maybe get some ideas for nagging the woman in your life in retaliation for throwing out your favourite t-shirts.

Sabine Reichel

This first column is written by Sabine Reichel, former model, New York designer and long-time reporter and writer (in English and German) whose works include books (What Did you do in The War, Daddy? and Grey is Great) and columns in Huffington Post50.

I was delighted when she agreed to write a guest post for Grey Fox. Sabine has much to say about life and style as an older woman which resonates with what Grey Fox is all about. I'm hoping to post fairly regular contributions from her. Please let me have your comments and questions as usual!

Careful, it jiggles! The Sins of Summer
by Sabine Reichel

Let’s pretend it’s summer and it is really hot. You wear those little sleeveless cotton stretch-tops or even a dress with spaghetti straps the way you always did, all your life - without a bra, because you are of the sixties generation. Except you are 50 plus now, in terrific shape – for your age, as impolite people like to add - and it doesn't do any harm.

And then a girlfriend, a really good one (otherwise she wouldn't dare) says to you, 'Your upper arms jiggle!'. Which is just another way of saying, 'If I were you, I’d stop wearing sleeveless tops and not show the world my naked arms – at your age! And while you’re at it, wear a bra!'

Trim, athletic upper arms are a dream for many

That hurts - but let's investigate this summery topic to see how fashion-trouble can be avoided.

Trim, athletic upper arms are a dream for many (including myself - but excluding Madonna). Past fifty untamed flesh appears in all kinds of places. In younger years it’s luscious, firm and silky, the breasts sit proud and high – but then, all of a sudden it seems, the flesh is jiggly and moves about like jelly. But it is the truth – and it seems sometimes unfair – women have more loose flesh on their bodies than men. It's really nice as long as it wraps itself in perfect proportion around a trim body. (And I don’t mean like Lady Gaga’s real beefsteak-dress of last year!)

Madonna

Nora Ephron, the late, very funny American writer and author of the bestseller I Feel Bad about my Neck, knew a thing or two about the older body that seems to betray you whenever you look away as everything goes south when you hit fifty. She opted for turtle-neck sweaters and long sleeves and it's safe to say that she was never spotted bra-less at her fabulous New York lunches.

In my informal fashion-quiz which I do often for fun with girlfriends, I asked them 'How long can you go sleeveless and bra-less in public?' At the very most until your le fifties was the answer. Because no matter how fit you are, there are not only jiggling parts on your upper arms but strange and scary wobbly hills and fatty deposits right under your arm that don’t need to be exposed freely to strangers anywhere. And certainly not without a bra.

You should have a relaxed and loving relationship with your body

We all know the now older lady-hippies, don’t we? Once adorable super-skinny flower children and budding feminists who banned not only the bomb, but bras as well, they still have flowing grey hair, comfy shapeless dresses over natural bosoms, Birkenstocks and recycled shopping bags. I love hippies, I was one myself, and the idea of liberation on all fronts is always appealing. But while your mind and animals should run wild and free, bosoms of a certain age should not.

Who decides what is beautiful and fits the bill of propriety? Naturally, it is very important that only you yourself decides what is permissible at what age – it is an individual question of comfort and aesthetics. Of course, you should have a relaxed and loving relationship with your body and allow it some freedom, no need to wrap it in Spanx like a wounded knee.

Being in control when it comes to exposure

But there’s nothing wrong with being a little critical and in control when it comes to exposure. What are the real turn-offs when looking at other people’s bodies in public? Sadly, more older women than is good for them have an uninhibited streak when it comes to nakedness. I don’t like to stare at ageing armpits – it’s creepy. Sorry. 

So, I wear sleeveless stuff without a bra only at home or with close friends. But fashionable life goes on in the outside world. So, here’s the plan for a cool and pretty summer without exposing flabby flesh. 

Wrap a scarf or sole around the shoulders

First, get hold of a comfortable bra and consider these tips.

1. If you must wear a sleeveless dress – and it better be gorgeous – wrap a beautiful, feather light silk scarf or stole around the shoulders.

2. Layers are life-savers! Wear a slightly transparent long-sleeved stretchy shirt under the dress. Alternative: a flimsy long-sleeved chiffon blouse.

3. Get a short little silk or cotton cardigan (waist length), that you also can just hang casually over your shoulders if it gets too warm.

Now you’re all set!