A reader asks - how do I dress now that I'm past 40? (Part 2)

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This continues from my the first part of this post here, where I was responding to a reader's query about how he should dress once past forty.

My reply reflects my own thinking over the 18 months since I started to write this blog. I have no definitive answers, and my thinking is still developing; so ask me this question again in another 18 months and you'll probably have a different answer.

As I said last time, older men see style in binary terms - a choice between either young men's fashions or the shapeless neutrality so often bought by men once past forty. We see nothing in between.

The answer for me is looking for style with a twist. In reality, the older man, choosing carefully, can buy into the younger/fashionable/stylish (whatever term you want to use) end of the market without looking like mutton dressed as lamb. Younger styles tend to be slimmer-fitting and therefore can look better-fitting than the baggy, all-enveloping clothing adopted by many men in later life. Colours and patterns may be bolder, giving interest to the neutral look so often adopted as we reach middle age.

Image The Sartorialist

Here are a few general ideas -

• Make sure clothes fit well. Avoid jackets which are too large over the shoulders or too long in the arm. Find trousers which aren't too baggy around thigh and backside - and are the right length. Use your local tailor to have anything adjusted which isn't quite right. 
• Go for slimmer fits if you can. If your body shape doesn't allow this, make sure the clothes fit closely but comfortably.
• Buy as good quality as you can - I save up most of my buying for the sales. 
• Plan your wardrobe - avoid the impulse buy. Do you really need those pink chinos? What will they go with? When will you wear them?
• Start with basics - a dark suit, blue blazer, summer jacket, chinos, jeans, brogues, suede shoes, casual shoes, a few casual and formal shirts, neutral knitwear. Build from these basics, ensuring that you can interchange without clashing styles or colours, but have a few bright signature pieces (such as a fair Isle jumper or floral shirt, perhaps) to wear with jeans or trousers.

Here are a few of my favourite images, some of which I've used before, to give inspiration.

Image The Sartorialist

Image The Sartorialist

Image Hackett 

Image Catwalking

Oliver Spencer

Richard James

The Sartorialist

Grey Fox models 11 - Jeremy Irons advertises for Berluti

With Berluti, bootmakers since 1895, opening a new shop in Conduit Street, London, it's good to see that they recognise the demographic of their clientèle by using Jeremy Irons in their advertising campaign - top marks to Berluti!

For others in the series of grey-haired models in menswear advertising click here.

A reader asks - What footwear to wear with shorts?

Dear Mr Fox,

I've recently discovered your blog and am thoroughly enjoying your posts, as is my 47 year old (slightly grey haired) husband.

I have a question for your on his behalf please (as unlike me, he doesn't spend half his waking life reading blogs.) The question is, what would you suggest as a suitable but stylish footwear choice for wearing with shorts? It's a really tricky one. Sandals without socks is a solution when on holiday or in the garden, but isn't really suitable for going into town. He has tried the slip-on shoes without socks look, which was a disaster! His current stop gap solution is to wear socks with Converse trainers, which is fine, but very casual.

Image The Sartorialist

I'm not sure if you've got anything on this subject planned for future posts? If not, any suggestions you can offer will be very gratefully received.

Thank you so much for your time.
Jane M.

Grey Fox replies -

Dear Jane M.,

Thank you for your question, which exercises the minds of many men in those brief days when the weather is warm enough for shorts. Here are my thoughts - take them we you will.

Converse, or similar white or blue canvas deck shoes, are certainly a good option, as their casual and comfortable style goes well with shorts - but there are several alternatives.

Leather deck or sailing shoes are an obvious choice - they come in a wide variety of colours and are comfortable and cool to wear. I've just bought a pair of Rockport deck shoes which are beautifully soft and comfortable.

Suede shoes, as in desert boots or lightweight brogues, look good with shorts. Suede is breathable, cool, comfortably soft and works well in warm weather.

From top left - Converse, Sperry Top-Sider, Alvaro leather sandals, Castaner espadrilles, Swims deck shoes, J.Crew Kenton suede brogue. All images (except Sperry) courtesy of Mr Porter.

I avoid trainers on comfort grounds. They are sweaty and smelly in warm weather and are best kept for the sports for which they were designed. Crocs and flip flops sometimes get a bad press and you may like to restrict their use to the beach.

Sandals are fine (without socks) and can be stylish and comfortable around town if the right pair is chosen. Espadrilles are ideal, but won't last long pounding the pavements.

You mention socks - I wear them with shoes and shorts. In general, I prefer them to be light in colour (white, khaki or a pale yellow or cream) and unpatterned (and certainly not black or dark-coloured). In general they should be short, but I see no reason why long socks shouldn't be adopted by the bolder man seeking to recreate the early twentieth century military/explorer look, with khaki socks and matching shorts. My prediction is that this look will hit the fashion shows within a couple of years, so I suggest you pre-empt it now. You read it first on Grey Fox.

I've chosen some images for this post which may help your selection of shoes - good luck in your search.

All this reminds me that I'm overdue to write about the thorny issue of shorts - so I'll do that soon.

Image The Sartorialist

Image The Sartorialist

Image The Sartorialist

Vogue Accountant - a cartoon by Neil Kerber

Neil Kerber is a cartoonist whose work you may well recognise - he's the creator of Polly Bean. I couldn't resist this cartoon of the Vogue Accountant. It made me chuckle and will resonate with a few of Grey Fox's readers.

I'm grateful to Neil for giving me permission to reproduce it. I recommend a visit to Neil Kerber's website where you can see others, many with a fashion theme. The Vogue Accountant is available as a hand-signed and dated limited edition print for £90.

Other cartoons are also available a signed prints. You can contact Neil through his website, or  info@neilkerber.com or telephone 07813 939697.

Rake SS14 at London Collections:Men - video

I like the cool classicism of Rake's SS14 collection, shown last week at LC:M. Wearable clothes with a very mature and elegant edge.

See Rake's website for more information.

Mr Porter sale - Grey Fox picks

The sales have hit the shops and Mr Porter's summer sale is now online with reductions up to 50% or so.

Here are a few Grey Fox picks - see Mr Porter Sale

Richard James Prince of Wales check wool suit £587.50

Richard James wool and linen blend blazer £397.50

Junya Watanabe slimfit blazer £812

Paul Smith navy evening suit (tuxedo) £442.50

Hartford Madras-check shirt £82.50

Folk tuck ribbed knitted pima cotton sweater £75

Mackintosh Dunoon handmade rain coat £390

Gitman vintage Hawaiian print shirt £82.50

Slowear Incotex lightweight chinos £97.50

Thom Browne pocket square £20

Car Shoe suede driving shoes £120

London Undercover umbrella £35

Pitti Uomo SS14 - what were they wearing on the streets? Mr Porter video

Pitti Uomo SS14 followed immediately on London Collections:Men. Here Mr Porter captures what was being worn over the last few days by visitors to this Florence menswear show.

I love the double-breasted jackets. Some details you may like, others not, but it's worth a look.

Richard James SS14 at London Collections:Men - video

One of my favourites at LC:M earlier this week was the Richard James show.

 

Grey Fox Models 10 - Oliver Spencer at London Collections:Men

This was the only grey-haired model I saw during London Collections:Men. It's quite possible that I missed others, but mature male models were few and far between.

Why is it that the menswear industry shows no interest in the older man, a huge and affluent market? Will someone please explain it to me? I asked everywhere at LC:M and had no answers.

Image Catwalking

Oliver Spencer showed beautiful softly-tailored and coloured clothes which would be ideal for the man looking for something with classic roots, but providing a slightly different and edgy look.

See Oliver Spencer's website here.

For others in the series of grey-haired models in menswear advertising click here.

London Collections:Men - highlights video

A video outlining some of the main events of London Collections:Men 2013, introduced by none other than Boris Johnson - enjoy the show.

Is there anything for you here, as an older man? Let me know what you like and dislike.

A few grey hairs at London Collections: Men

A few of the well-dressed older men spotted at London Collections:Men over the last few days.

I will be writing more about the exciting brands each represents, offering so much to men of style of all ages, over the next few weeks. Meanwhile, please visit their websites for more information.

Stuart Maxwell of Esk, designers of the most beautiful knitwear www.eskcashmere.com

T-Michael, a real gentleman with whom I shared a taxi and had many great discussions. Designer and bespoke menswear guru - www.norwegianrain.com and www.t-michael.com

David Keyte and Stephanie Porritt of Universal Works - a wonderful brand about which I hope to say more in the not too distant future.

Grey Fox Senior - a Father's Day post

Happy Father's Day.

See what I have written about my father for Father's Day here on Fellow Clothing's blog. I'm grateful to them for posting this.

Grey Fox Senior serving with the RAMC in Malaya in the late forties

Grey Fox at London Collections:Men

For the next few days I'm going to be at London Collections: Men, tirelessly looking for styles suitable for the man of mature years, taste and style - so I will be quiet on the blog for a few days.

Major and minor fashion houses will be showing their menswear collections for spring/summer 2014 and it will be interesting to see those bastions of the high street, Marks and Spencer and John Lewis, taking part as well - surely a sign that men are taking more interest in what they wear.

Richard James SS13

This is the third LC:M and it marks London's rise in importance as an international centre of menswear design and retailing. It will be fascinating for me to wander round in a world so foreign to me.

I will report back to you here, on Twitter, Instagram, Facebook and, ultimately, on The Guardian Fashion Blogs Network. I've also be commissioned to write a piece for Menswear Insight on styles suitable for the older man - will that be a challenge in such a youth-centric world? I'll let you know. I'm also hoping to see some attempt to sell to the older market by the use of older models; will I be pleasantly surprised?

Meanwhile, if you have any questions, suggestions or comments for your roving reporter, please contact me through the blog here, or on Twitter.

Desirable objects - Quarterre bicycle stands

As a keen cyclist and lover of well-designed objects, this bike stand by Quarterre was bound to attract my eye. What better and more attractive way to keep those beloved machines out of the way (and display them for admiration by your cycling friends)?

Quarterre is a London-based transport & industrial design studio that, as well as consulting to companies around the world, makes the Furniture For Bikes range of bike storage products. These have developed from their love of cycling and design - and a recognition of the difficulties of living with a bike in cities.

The range is made in the UK and has been designed to the sort of standards normally reserved for high-end furniture. See and buy here.

UK wool industry spinning back into business - and why we should buy British.

This video shoes how at least one element of the British wool industry is showing signs of recovery.

Here's an argument to support buying British menswear products, made from British raw materials and fabrics. We have the skills and industrial resources, let's use them and help them develop.

(Video from CNN)

The Guardian Fashion Bloggers' Network has launched

Grey Fox has now started blogging on The Guardian Fashion Bloggers' Network. Please visit and take part by commenting on the posts by all the bloggers. 

Grey Fox's Guardian blog is here. For more thoughts on this development, see my previous post here.

Image The Guardian

Father's Day - gift ideas from Grey Fox's favourites

A few ideas for gifts for Father's Day - for all budgets.

A fun, quirky, colourful and sometimes naughty pocket square from Age of Reason - designed and made in Britain by the ever-talented Ali Mapletoft -

Sartorial Lab gift vouchers - personal styling, wardrobe managment and personal shopping for the dad who needs a style makeover. With Sarah Gilfillan, style guru and all-round lovely person.

Oliver Peoples eyewear - website

A bespoke cocktail from Toasted Glass - Dad can have a cocktail designed and named after him. Here is the Grey Fox cocktail designed by my good friend, talented artist and cocktail maker, Monique Low -

Pantherella socks -Mr Porter

Holdall and Co made in England leather folio - website. Designed by my bubbly and enthusiastic friend, Rai Navickaite -

Riz board shorts - Riz website 

Cherchbi Black Sail Herwyck rucksack - from a man who loves The Lake District and its Herdwick sheep, Adam Atkinson - website

A Vickers Bicycle Company New Classic roadster bicycle from here - founded by cycle enthusiast and general good egg, Ian Covey.

Alan Paine AW13 - a quick preview (no. 9 in series of Grey Fox models)

Here's a glimpse of the Alan Paine Autumn/Winter '13 look, starring the same bearded gent featured in the Grey Fox Models post earlier this week.

Wouldn't it be great if we could see more of this? Older men are increasingly interested in style (if my mailbox is anything to go by) and it's time the fashion industry acknowledged this. They may even make some money out of it! The more they see such advertising, the more older men will want to spend on style.