The essentials of a classic wardrobe - Part 1 - the jacket or blazer

Nine months into my search for style, what items form the basis of my wardrobe, the classics that are useful for any eventuality? The following are staples - jackets/blazers, chinos, brogues, jumpers, deck shoes, shirts, suits, jeans. I haven't yet sorted out outerwear, so I'll exclude that for the time being.

Let's start with the jacket or blazer. I go for a fairly classical shape (not too short or long, conventional-shape lapels etc) and wear it for all occasions, formal or not. Coming in a wide variety of styles and materials, it can be the most versatile and useful item in the wardrobe. Make sure it fits well, particularly across the shoulders; avoid a baggy fit and over-long sleeves.

I can't remember where I found this picture!

You may want to start with a traditional blue blazer, which will come in any material or weight to suit your use. The most formal have a conventional cut and are lined. The less formal may be unlined and unstructured. A blazer is infinitely adaptable, as it can be worn with formal trousers, jeans or chinos. Try a lightweight wool one (maybe cashmere) which will be wearable in all but the warmest weathers. Later on you could buy a linen blazer for summer use (see below). Wear with brogues, suede shoes, deck shoes, Converse (if you must) etc. Match with a formal shirt with or without a tie, polo shirt (I like this combination) or even a t-shirt if the jacket is of a less-formal cut.

Canali wool blazer, Mr Porter

Paul Weller wears a blazer in anger

Next we have the humble tweed jacket. Definitely cooler weather wear this one - I love the infinite colours of tweed and the popularity of the material means that jackets can, if needed, be bought with modern slim cuts. Otherwise go vintage or borrow your dad's jacket. Wear with any trousers or jeans; best with brogues.

Richard James Donegal tweed blazer, Mr Porter

Mr Mort

Finally, for summer, I love linen. There's something about the crushed look that brings out the relaxed rebel in a man. Often mixed with cotton or silk, its open weave makes the fabric wearable in the hottest weather.