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Grey Fox

A mature search for style. Fashion and menswear for all men.

Summer Style for Men: Fuller-Cut Pleated Trousers and Over-Shirts

Thursday, 10 May 2018

My search for style has drifted towards the classic, tailoring-inspired and somewhat slim in cut. For this summer I'd like to find alternatives to the classic blazer and slim-fitting straight-legged chino. A different jacket shape and trousers cut fuller and higher around the waist and upper leg, tapering to the hem (with turn-ups ideally) will fit the bill. Here's what I've assembled:

A linen look. Over shirt and trousers Massimo Dutti, shoes Edward Green

With the help of friend and ace personal stylist, Sarah of Sartorialab (link below), I tried on many pairs of trousers, eventually settling on a cotton/linen pair from Massimo Dutti. These have pleats, are cut fuller around the thigh and taper to turn-ups at the hem. The waist isn't quite as high as I'd have liked, but otherwise they are a fair fit. This pair was the cheapest I tried and I suspect from previous experience that their quality will match the price. However, they are adequate; so I'm happy. The fuller trouser is a style already established among the sartorially aware, although it will take a while to reach the high street. 

The jacket, a linen over-shirt, is also from Massimo Dutti and represents a change from my usual blazer. It resembles the field coat/combat jacket, making it a stylish alternative to the classic summer jacket. So, with two items (see the image above), I've altered my style without taking too great a step.

Left: Massimo Dutti Limited Edition blue cotton/linen trousers £79.95 Right: unstructured linen overshirt £109

Similar over-shirts are available from Drake's and Private White VC and, although I haven't been able to try them, I offer them as possible British-made alternatives (below). I'd love to be able to work with these brands to wear British products for these features, but sadly they are often unable to help.

Left: Drake's linen overshirt £245 Right: Private White VC safari tropical weave cotton shacket £379

Fuller-cut pleated trousers are rarer than their slim-cut flat-fronted cousins. Here are some alternatives (not all are British-made):

Left: Timothy Everest ivory check pleated pant £169 (made in Portugal)  Right: E Tautz pleated trouser £300

Left: New & Lingwood Ashton trousers £350 Right: Katharine Hamnett brace moleskin trouser £265

A search for style is not going to progress unless we try new styles, brands, shapes and colours. I feel I've made a step here and look forward to wearing these clothes this summer.

Sarah Gilfillan of Sartorialab offers support for men from wardrobe reviews to shopping trips and makeovers. Her advice has always been invaluable to me on my search for style.


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